Replacing a windshield sounds simple until you’re the one staring at a spreading crack and deciding who to trust with your car’s structural integrity. I’ve spent enough time around shops and suppliers to know the difference between a tidy repair and a job that causes wind noise, leaks, or sensor chaos six months later. The stakes are not cosmetic. Your windshield supports the roof in a rollover, helps airbags deploy correctly, and anchors driver-assistance cameras that keep you in your lane. Choosing the right shop matters, whether you’re calling a big chain or a local team like Anderson Auto Glass in your own backyard.
If you’re weighing an Anderson windshield replacement, bring these seven questions with you. The answers will tell you a lot about the technician’s skill, the materials they use, and whether they stand behind the work when the weather or the highway tests it.
1) What type of glass will you install: OEM, OE-equivalent, or aftermarket?
Glass is not all the same. When shops say OEM, they mean the original brand that supplied the manufacturer, often with the carmaker’s logo on the corner. OE-equivalent comes from the same factories or to the same specifications but without the automaker’s branding. Aftermarket spans a wide range, from excellent to barely passable.
The right choice depends on your vehicle, your budget, and your tolerance for small differences. On a late-model Subaru, Honda, or Ford with camera-based ADAS, OEM or a proven OE-equivalent usually avoids headaches with calibration and optical distortion. On an older pickup with no sensors, high-quality aftermarket can be perfectly fine. Ask the shop which brands they use and why. A knowledgeable team will name specific manufacturers, not just say “premium.” If you hear names like Pilkington, Saint-Gobain Sekurit, AGC, Fuyao, or Guardian, you’re in a reputable zone. Ask about distortion standards and whether the glass meets or exceeds FMVSS 205 and 212/208 requirements. If the person at the counter doesn’t recognize those numbers, that’s a red flag.
There’s also the matter of acoustic glass and infrared coatings. Many modern vehicles use laminated acoustic windshields that reduce cabin noise by a few decibels on the highway. Some include a solar-absorbing interlayer that helps with cabin heat. If your car came with these features, insist on replacing like for like. Swapping acoustic for standard laminated glass saves the shop money but costs you comfort and resale value.
2) What urethane and installation process do you use, and what is the safe drive-away time?
The glue matters as much as the glass. Windshield urethane is structural adhesive, not caulk. It holds the windshield to the body, contributes to body stiffness, and keeps the glass from blowing out when an airbag deploys against it. There are wide differences in cure times, strength, and weather tolerance. Quality urethanes from Sika, Dow, and 3M have well-documented safe drive-away times that vary based on bead size, temperature, humidity, and whether the vehicle has a passenger-side airbag.
If a shop says you can drive in 30 minutes regardless of the weather, they’re telling you what you want to hear, not what is safe. On a cool, dry day, safe drive-away might be 60 to 120 minutes. In the summer heat with decent humidity, it may be quicker. Ask them to cite the urethane brand, product line, and the published safe drive-away time for your particular vehicle and conditions. This isn’t nitpicking. If you brake hard or the airbag deploys before the adhesive has cured to spec, you’ve turned a safety system into a liability.
The prep work determines whether the bond will last. Proper installation calls for removing trims and wipers as needed, cutting the old glass without damaging the pinchweld, trimming the old urethane down to a thin, uniform layer, treating any scratches with primer, and using fresh primer on the glass frit when specified by the urethane manufacturer. I’ve seen “splash and dash” jobs where someone smears glue over rusty metal. It sticks for a windshield replacement while, then a rainstorm tells the truth. A good shop will happily explain their process and the steps they take to prevent leaks and corrosion.
3) Can you calibrate my ADAS, and do you perform static, dynamic, or both?
If your car has a camera behind the windshield, your replacement is not finished when the glass is in. The new glass changes the camera’s position and view by a few millimeters, which is enough to throw off lane-keeping, adaptive cruise, and collision-warning systems. There are two broad calibration methods. Static calibration requires targets, special tooling, and precise measurements in a controlled space. Dynamic calibration requires driving the car at specified speeds while the system learns. Many manufacturers require both, and the process can take 30 to 120 minutes, sometimes longer.
Ask whether the shop performs calibrations in-house, partners with a specialized facility, or sends you to the dealer. All can be valid paths. What you want is clarity about the method, the equipment, and the documentation. If they use a glass of different optics or thickness than OEM on a vehicle with a sensitive camera, dynamic calibration may fail or auto glass the lane lines may appear to “hunt” on the screen. A team experienced with anderson windshield replacement should be able to tell you upfront what your make and model typically requires and how they verify the results. The final paperwork should include pre- and post-scan reports, calibration confirmation, and any Diagnostic Trouble Codes cleared. If they can’t produce it, your insurance company may balk later, and you’re left guessing whether your safety systems are actually working.
Edge case: vehicles with heated wiper parks, heads-up display, rain sensors, and night-vision cameras. Each adds complexity. HUD glass in particular needs the correct laminate to avoid double images. If your car has these features, ask how they confirm proper operation after installation and whether they’ve replaced that exact configuration before.
4) What’s your leak and stress-crack warranty, and how do you handle defects?
A strong warranty is more than an advertising line. It’s a peek into how often they’ve needed to fix their own work and how they treat customers when variables go sideways. Windshield replacements can develop issues weeks later. A small pinhole in the urethane bead, a trim clip that didn’t seat, a bead contaminated by silicone from a prior repair, or a minor body flex in extreme heat can reveal themselves with a drip or a whistle on the interstate.
Ask for the warranty in writing and read the exclusions. Most reputable shops offer at least a lifetime warranty against workmanship-related leaks and air noise, and 30 to 90 days for stress cracks unrelated to impact. They won’t cover a rock strike, of course, but they should assess the crack pattern honestly. Stress cracks often start at the edge and travel without a visible impact point. I’ve had shops try to blame a previously repaired chip for a new stress crack that actually originated at a crowded urethane bead that touched the glass incorrectly. A careful installer maintains an even bead height and avoids hard contact points around the perimeter to prevent that.
Also ask how they handle defects in the glass itself. You may not notice an optical distortion, a wavy line, or a tiny lamination blemish until the afternoon sun hits it. A good shop will replace a defective pane without a fight. If they argue that “they all do that,” consider pushing for a different brand or moving on.
5) Do you offer mobile service, and what conditions do you require?
Mobile service is convenient, and the best anderson auto glass teams can do excellent work in your driveway. But mobile work has limits. Adhesive cure times depend on temperature and humidity. Dust, pollen, or wind is the enemy of a clean bond. Rain is a showstopper. You’re within your rights to ask how they control the environment: Do they require a garage, tent, or wind break? Will they reschedule for high winds or active precipitation? Most shops won’t set glass below about 40 degrees Fahrenheit unless they bring specific cold-weather urethanes and take extra steps. Quality mobile techs bring portable racks, clean cloths, fresh blades, and keep the work area neat. If someone plans to cut your glass out in the parking lot on a gusty day with dry leaves swirling, that’s not a good sign.
There’s also a practical question about post-install instructions. Most installers recommend avoiding car washes for 24 to 48 hours, leaving the retention tape on overnight, cracking the windows a touch to equalize pressure, and not slamming doors for the first day. If it’s mobile, they should leave a care card and explain it in plain terms. Small habits like leaving the cowl off for an extra hour to let the urethane skin can prevent a late-day leak.
6) How will you protect my interior, paint, and electronics during the job?
Good installers think like detailers. They drape the dash, protect the fenders, and keep blades away from paint. They use plastic or nylon tools where possible. They bag and label clips so the cowl and trims go back exactly how they came off. They clean the pinch-weld and vacuum glass slivers with a soft attachment, not a brush that grinds grit into your carpet. Cutting corners here leaves you with squeaks, loose moldings, or scratched A-pillars that you discover a week later.
If your vehicle has a humidity sensor, light sensor, or a heated camera bracket, ask how they de-bond and reattach those items. On some models, the rain sensor gel pad should be replaced rather than reused. Using a heat gun carelessly can cloud the plastic housing or damage the headliner. Attention to these details is a litmus test for whether the shop treats the car like their own, not just another VIN in the queue.
This is also where local knowledge helps. An Anderson windshield replacement shop that works on the same mix of trucks, SUVs, and commuters day in and day out will know which clips are brittle on a five-year-old GM cowl or how to finesse a Toyota sensor bracket that likes to crack when cold.
7) What will this cost, and how do you handle insurance and glass coverage?
The price should match the scope, not just the glass. Expect separate line items for the windshield, moldings, clips, urethane, labor, and ADAS calibration. Depending on your car, the total can vary from a few hundred dollars to over a thousand. A 2012 Civic without sensors is one thing. A 2022 SUV with acoustic glass, heated camera, and HUD is another. If a quote seems dramatically cheaper, ask which components they’ve left out. I’ve seen low bids that excluded calibration or reused moldings that were designed for one-time use.
If you’re filing through insurance, many policies carry a separate glass endorsement with low or zero deductible. The shop should help with claim initiation, provide photos, and submit calibration paperwork. What you want to avoid is being stuck between the insurer and the shop later. Ask whether they work directly with your carrier and whether they bill calibration as sublet or in-house. Some carriers push for the cheapest glass. You have the right to choose the shop and the glass, though you may pay the difference if you insist on OEM beyond policy allowances. A candid conversation upfront avoids surprise balances.
A quiet note on timing: If your crack is creeping, don’t wait for weeks because of brand debates. Laminated glass buys you time, but cracks grow faster in summer heat or after a cold night followed by a defroster blast. If you need to drive while you wait, keep pressure changes gentle and avoid slamming doors. Park in the shade when possible and skip the car wash until it’s fixed.
How to read the room when you call or visit
You can learn a lot in five minutes. Watch how the counter person talks about your car. If you say you have a 2019 RAV4 with a lane camera, do they immediately mention calibration? If you bring up acoustic glass, do they check your VIN build sheet or shrug? A professional will slow down, ask clarifying questions, and capture your exact options: rain sensor, solar tint, HUD, heated wiper park, forward-facing camera. They may ask for a photo of your windshield stamp and the area behind your rearview mirror to confirm sensors. That level of diligence is not nitpicking, it saves both of you a second trip.
The shop layout tells a story too. Clean carts, organized adhesive tubes with date stamps, and fresh nozzles are good signs. If a tech is using a cold knife with a nicked blade and tossing glass shards near an open urethane bead, it’s fair to be concerned. Good teams work clean, because clean work prevents comebacks.
A quick reality check on repair vs replacement
A small chip or a short crack can often be repaired instead of replaced, and a good shop will tell you when that makes sense. The best time to repair is before dirt or water infiltrates the break. A repair restores strength and prevents spreading, though you may still see a faint blemish. If the damage is in the driver’s primary viewing area, was contaminated for weeks, or extends to the edge, replacement is usually safer. I’ve seen chips repaired in the rain that looked fine in the bay, then turned cloudy a month later. The resin trapped moisture and haze formed under summer heat. A careful tech will reschedule rather than rush a repair in bad conditions.
What to expect on the day of installation
The day tends to go more smoothly if you clear the cowl area and glove box, remove toll tags from the glass, and arrive with a reasonably clean vehicle. The tech will confirm parts, test electronics, and photograph the car before touching anything. After cutting out the old glass and prepping the frame, they will set the new windshield with a specialized setting tool or, if they’re old-school steady, by hand with a helper. They’ll press the glass into the bead evenly, install new moldings and clips, replace the wipers in their original position, and tape the top if needed to prevent lift until the adhesive skins.
If calibration is required, they’ll either move the car into a bay with targets or take it on a prescribed drive. Expect to wait an extra hour or two for this. When you leave, your paperwork should list the glass brand and part number, urethane type, cure guidance, calibration results, and care instructions. If any of those are missing, ask.
Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
Shops rarely try to cut corners on purpose, but the schedule can push bad habits. The most common issues I’ve seen:
- Reusing old moldings or one-time clips that don’t hold as designed Skipping primer on minor scratches in the pinchweld, which later rusts and lifts the bond Misrouting the cowl drains, leading to wet floors after heavy rain Centering the glass by eye and leaving uneven gaps at the A-pillars, which whistles at 65 mph
You can prevent most of these by choosing a shop that works to process, not just speed. Ask them to point out any rust they find and how they plan to treat it. If your vehicle uses riveted or bonded moldings, confirm those are included. If the car has a known quirk, like a Ford F-150 cowl that likes to warp, ask how they seat it without kinking.
When choosing local makes life easier
There are benefits to working with people who know the regional conditions. In the Upstate, spring pollen can be brutal, and hot, humid summers accelerate urethane cures but expose sloppy prep immediately. A local anderson auto glass team sees the same patterns and vehicles, knows the quirks of the roads and weather, and deals with the same insurers weekly. If something needs a quick touch-up, you’re ten minutes away instead of across the state. That proximity encourages accountability.
Local also helps with sourcing. When a specific windshield is backordered nationally, regional distributors sometimes have a few on hand. A shop with good supplier relationships can find an OE-equivalent when others throw up their hands. I’ve seen them cross-reference part numbers, switch from a kit that included the wrong molding to individual components, and save a week.
A short story from the field
A client brought me a late-model SUV with a brand-new windshield that whistled above 55 mph. The dash cam footage from his road trip showed it never whistled before. The shop had installed high-quality glass and good urethane, so the usual culprits seemed unlikely. We road-tested it with blue painter’s tape over the top molding, then over the A-pillars, then around the cowl. The whistle vanished when the left A-pillar was taped. The reveal gap looked fine, but the molding clip on that side had been reused, and the little rubber fin that smooths airflow had a tiny wave. One new clip, a reset of the molding, and the car went silent. The original shop covered it cheerfully once we explained the diagnosis. Small parts matter.
Negotiating quality without being a nuisance
You don’t need to hover over the installer. You do want to set expectations clearly. Explain that safety systems must function exactly as designed and that you prefer OEM or a specified OE-equivalent if available. Ask for documentation and be upfront about your schedule so they can set aside proper time. The tone matters. Professionals respond well to informed customers who respect the work. If a shop bristles at reasonable questions or can’t answer specifics, that’s your signal.
The 7 questions, ready to use
- What brand and type of glass will you install, and does it match my original options like acoustic laminate, solar coating, HUD, or heating? Which urethane system do you use, what’s the published safe drive-away time for my car today, and how do you prep the pinchweld and glass? Can you perform the required ADAS calibrations for my vehicle, and will I receive pre- and post-scan and calibration documentation? What are your warranties for leaks, wind noise, and stress cracks, and how do you handle optical defects discovered after installation? Do you offer mobile service for my car, and what environmental conditions or facilities do you require to ensure a proper bond? How will you protect the interior, paint, and electronics, and will you replace one-time-use moldings and clips? What is the full, itemized cost including calibration and trim parts, and how do you coordinate with insurance or glass coverage?
Bring this list when you call or walk in. You’ll hear the difference immediately. The right shop will answer in specifics, not slogans.
Final thoughts before you book
If you’re making calls around Anderson, look for a team that combines careful process with straightforward communication. Busy isn’t bad. Sloppy is. Price is part of the conversation, not the whole thing. Ask about glass options honestly, pick the one that suits your car and your budget, and insist on proper calibration when sensors are involved. That’s how you avoid the twin sins of windshield work: the slow drip after the first hard rain and the blinking lane camera icon on your next commute.
Get these seven answers, and you’ll drive away with a windshield that looks right, sounds quiet, and anchors your safety systems exactly as the carmaker intended. That peace of mind is worth more than the logo in the corner of the glass. It’s built on process, parts, and people who care.